Dec. 27 Varanasi to Jaipur

After weeks of trying to get train tickets, I ended up with Sleeper Class tickets on a train that goes north through Agra then west to Jaipur.  I have a 12 hour layover there, then back on another train to Udaipur - a 2-day journey and my first in Sleeper Class (read cattle car); another adventure, no doubt!

To begin with, the window does not close well and the cold air blows on your head all night - I nearly froze!  Although I bought a blanket and small pillow for the journey, I had to get my down jacket out and double the blanket on my legs.  As I was getting my jacket, I saw a medium size rat run across our shoes from one compartment the next; hopefully he will stay on the floor.  There are also no curtains to close on the 6-person compartment, so a man brought a blanket in, put it on the floor and proceeded to lay down to sleep.  Since not all the luggage under the bottom bunk was locked, I ran him off. 

Of course, we arrived in Jaipur an hour late.  Oh yes, it was an adventure!

Dec. 25 Varanasi - Christmas Day

Per our arrangement, Galina woke me at 6 am to walk the ghats and see the sadhus who come very early to bathe in the Ganges.  The sun had not yet risen when we arrived at the ghats and there was less fog today allowing a better view of the town.  After negotiations with a boat captain, we climbed aboard and made our way south toward Marnikarnika Ghat.

What an unforgettable way to spend Christmas morning; watching the sun rise on the city of Varanasi from the Ganges River!

The burning ghats were not as busy this morning, but as the boat captain rowed past, he told us they use 150-200 kilos of wood to cremate one body.  The wood is weighed so that they may charge the family the correct amount for the cremation.

Galina is leaving for the south this evening to escape the cold and damp here.  Between the candles and smoke from the evening fires, my lungs and sinuses are full of black soot.  I have acquired a cough and black is coming up from my lungs.  I must say, I will be glad to get to a warmer climate myself as it is so cold in the night and mornings that you can see your breath.

Dec. 8 Bundi

I sit on the roof top and watch the green conures with their red neck ring and orange-red shoulders push each other off the highest perch around, the pinnacle of the adjacent temple, as the chipmunks lay spread-eagle on the rooftop sunning themselves.  A large flock of conures just flew past; loud screeches shattering the peaceful morning.  It's 7:30 am and there are dogs on roofs chasing monkeys, shopkeepers with poles chasing monkeys, a man with a long hooked staff scoops debris from the open gutters, women in saris sweep the pavement and I sit drinking chai on a bench, in the street, with the old 

men.  A baby monkey clings to its 3-legged mother's belly as she outruns the dog on the roof.  The troop of monkeys scampers by and runs out of sight.

There is an impressive waterfall approx. 36 km outside Bundi with a picnic area as well as a lovely pool at the base of the falls for swimming.  After breakfast, 4 of us got on 2 motorcycles and headed out to explore.  The place was massive with large square black basalt boulders leading to the precipice of the falls that were approx. a 120 ft. drop to the pool below.  As we walked around toward the bottom and looked into the pool, I saw a water snake making its way across the water.  I think I will just sun on the rocks and let everyone else swim if they want!  We spent most of the day walking around exploring and just lazing around before the ride back to town - great day!

Back in town the hogs root in the garbage pile while cows nibble alongside.  These huge hogs have 6" stiff spines coming up from their back making them look like wild boars.

Dec. 6, 2011 Bundi

Gate to the City Palace

I arrived in Bundi at 11 pm and went to my chosen guest house.  Lonely Planet should be ashamed of themselves for recommending this place!  Between the dirty sheets that I made them get out of bed and change, and the nasty communal toilet, I hardly know what to say.  I can say I didn't get much sleep as the owner, a rather large disheveled woman, shouted to the help on the next floor through the overhead grate earlier than anyone should be waking the guests.  The only good news is that it only cost me 150 Rupees; approx. $3.00.



City Palace

 After walking the town in search of a decent hotel, I got my bag and checked into the Haveli Tarragarh Palace, a lovely old haveli with marble staircases and slick tile floors located below the city palace, which is the view from my window.  At 250 Rupees, it's a much better deal with a private bath, hot water shower, clean sheets (yes, 2 sheets as they normally only have a bottom sheet and blanket), and a towel. I opened the shutter style window to be greated by a Macaque monkey baring its teeth at me...I guess we suprised each other! 

After a shower, food, and a nap, I went out to explore Bundi, a town of approx. 89,000 inhabitants.  I headed toward the sound of drums beating as the Muslim celebration of Moram began.  I have never been a huge fan of percussion, but the drumming demonstrations were brilliant.  There were young boys & teenagers beating small drums, large bass drums, and kettle drums.  They twirled around in step with the bass drums and very energetically beat the kettle drums covered in camel hide, with hair still attached where it had not been beaten off.  The conductor/teacher did a fabulous job both teaching and motivating the boys who ranged in age from seven to seventeen.  When I caught his eye, I gave him a thumbs-up and he smiled.  After the performance, he came over to shake my hand...so sweet!

I stood on the ledge next to the police station with the policemen (a nice safe place) above the crowd.  There were only a few other westerners at the parade, mostly with large cameras; it was a local religious event not particularly for tourists.  The floats consisted of large mosques made from paper mache, cardboard, and aluminum foil with minarets topped by the quarter moon and star of the Muslim faith.  Old men with small grandchildren in their arms, women in saris nursing babies, vendors selling sweets, young girls with heads covered, men with henna died beards, all touched the floats and brought their hands over their faces, symbolizing bringing the light of the devine to open their eyes to the teachings of Allah.  It was a spectacle not to be missed as it happens only once a year.  I felt lucky to have been here to experience it first hand.  Of course, I forgot my camera....