Dec. 27 Varanasi to Jaipur

After weeks of trying to get train tickets, I ended up with Sleeper Class tickets on a train that goes north through Agra then west to Jaipur.  I have a 12 hour layover there, then back on another train to Udaipur - a 2-day journey and my first in Sleeper Class (read cattle car); another adventure, no doubt!

To begin with, the window does not close well and the cold air blows on your head all night - I nearly froze!  Although I bought a blanket and small pillow for the journey, I had to get my down jacket out and double the blanket on my legs.  As I was getting my jacket, I saw a medium size rat run across our shoes from one compartment the next; hopefully he will stay on the floor.  There are also no curtains to close on the 6-person compartment, so a man brought a blanket in, put it on the floor and proceeded to lay down to sleep.  Since not all the luggage under the bottom bunk was locked, I ran him off. 

Of course, we arrived in Jaipur an hour late.  Oh yes, it was an adventure!

Dec. 25 Varanasi - Christmas Day

Per our arrangement, Galina woke me at 6 am to walk the ghats and see the sadhus who come very early to bathe in the Ganges.  The sun had not yet risen when we arrived at the ghats and there was less fog today allowing a better view of the town.  After negotiations with a boat captain, we climbed aboard and made our way south toward Marnikarnika Ghat.

What an unforgettable way to spend Christmas morning; watching the sun rise on the city of Varanasi from the Ganges River!

The burning ghats were not as busy this morning, but as the boat captain rowed past, he told us they use 150-200 kilos of wood to cremate one body.  The wood is weighed so that they may charge the family the correct amount for the cremation.

Galina is leaving for the south this evening to escape the cold and damp here.  Between the candles and smoke from the evening fires, my lungs and sinuses are full of black soot.  I have acquired a cough and black is coming up from my lungs.  I must say, I will be glad to get to a warmer climate myself as it is so cold in the night and mornings that you can see your breath.

Dec. 17 Agra

Taj Mahal seen from Red Fort

Sandstone Mosque next to Taj

Both the Taj Mahal & the Red Fort were simply amazing!  I stood by the north west minaret looking up at the glory of sunrise on the white marble of the Taj, and remembered how I used to put up pictures of it on my wall as a kid, wanting to go see it someday, not knowing how I would ever get there.  And here I am many years later standing next to it - dreams DO come true if you just keep it in your mind long enough, you will find a way and the universe will work it out for you!  The mauseleum under the center dome was awe-inspiring with a 4" thick lattice of white translucent marble finely carved into vines and flowers, each inlaid with stones and mother of pearl - stunning!  No photos were allowed inside the mausoleum.

The afternoon was filled with the Red Fort and awesome it is!  The Royal quarters were all done in marble with inlaid semiprecious stones and magnificent.  The fort is huge with surrounding mote and wall with cut out niches for fighting.

Dec 16 Agra

Taj Mahal at Sunset

At 7:30 am, the sun is beginning to pierce the mist that shrouds the Taj Mahal.  It is impressive although the pollution is clouding it so bad you can't get a good photo.; the top dome is all that can be seen.  The view of the Taj is the best in town at the Shanti Lodge's rooftop cafe.

View from across the Yamuna River

Unfortunately I have arrived on a Thursday night and the Taj is closed on Friday!  Oh well, I will go across the river to get photos at sunset on those white marble domes.

My driver, Saleem, and I went to see some of the local sights, had lunch at the Green Cafe (lovely) and made our way across the river to get some good shots.  The view from the north bank was brilliant although the fog was still casting a veil on the white marble domes.  I just can't express how beautiful and regal it is!  Tomorrow I get to see inside!