Per our arrangement, Galina woke me at 6 am to walk the ghats and see the sadhus who come very early to bathe in the Ganges. The sun had not yet risen when we arrived at the ghats and there was less fog today allowing a better view of the town. After negotiations with a boat captain, we climbed aboard and made our way south toward Marnikarnika Ghat.
What an unforgettable way to spend Christmas morning; watching the sun rise on the city of Varanasi from the Ganges River!
The burning ghats were not as busy this morning, but as the boat captain rowed past, he told us they use 150-200 kilos of wood to cremate one body. The wood is weighed so that they may charge the family the correct amount for the cremation.
Galina is leaving for the south this evening to escape the cold and damp here. Between the candles and smoke from the evening fires, my lungs and sinuses are full of black soot. I have acquired a cough and black is coming up from my lungs. I must say, I will be glad to get to a warmer climate myself as it is so cold in the night and mornings that you can see your breath.
The burning ghats were not as busy this morning, but as the boat captain rowed past, he told us they use 150-200 kilos of wood to cremate one body. The wood is weighed so that they may charge the family the correct amount for the cremation.
Galina is leaving for the south this evening to escape the cold and damp here. Between the candles and smoke from the evening fires, my lungs and sinuses are full of black soot. I have acquired a cough and black is coming up from my lungs. I must say, I will be glad to get to a warmer climate myself as it is so cold in the night and mornings that you can see your breath.
