Dec. 27 Varanasi to Jaipur

After weeks of trying to get train tickets, I ended up with Sleeper Class tickets on a train that goes north through Agra then west to Jaipur.  I have a 12 hour layover there, then back on another train to Udaipur - a 2-day journey and my first in Sleeper Class (read cattle car); another adventure, no doubt!

To begin with, the window does not close well and the cold air blows on your head all night - I nearly froze!  Although I bought a blanket and small pillow for the journey, I had to get my down jacket out and double the blanket on my legs.  As I was getting my jacket, I saw a medium size rat run across our shoes from one compartment the next; hopefully he will stay on the floor.  There are also no curtains to close on the 6-person compartment, so a man brought a blanket in, put it on the floor and proceeded to lay down to sleep.  Since not all the luggage under the bottom bunk was locked, I ran him off. 

Of course, we arrived in Jaipur an hour late.  Oh yes, it was an adventure!

Dec. 25 Varanasi - Christmas Day

Per our arrangement, Galina woke me at 6 am to walk the ghats and see the sadhus who come very early to bathe in the Ganges.  The sun had not yet risen when we arrived at the ghats and there was less fog today allowing a better view of the town.  After negotiations with a boat captain, we climbed aboard and made our way south toward Marnikarnika Ghat.

What an unforgettable way to spend Christmas morning; watching the sun rise on the city of Varanasi from the Ganges River!

The burning ghats were not as busy this morning, but as the boat captain rowed past, he told us they use 150-200 kilos of wood to cremate one body.  The wood is weighed so that they may charge the family the correct amount for the cremation.

Galina is leaving for the south this evening to escape the cold and damp here.  Between the candles and smoke from the evening fires, my lungs and sinuses are full of black soot.  I have acquired a cough and black is coming up from my lungs.  I must say, I will be glad to get to a warmer climate myself as it is so cold in the night and mornings that you can see your breath.

Dec. 19 Khajaraho

On my second day in Khajuraho, I went to visit the Western Group of temples, the best preserved and most elaborate of the temples located here.  They were built  between the 9th & 11th centuries by warrior kings of the Chandela dynasty, and only 25 remain of the original 85 built.  The carvings on these temples are representative of the famed Kama Sutra book of sexual positions.

The Western Group is located in a very well maintained park setting with benches, flowers, trees, and monkeys.  It takes some hours to see all the temples, both inside (with torch), and out.  As far as quality of sculpture and architecture, the only place I have been that is in this league is Angkor Wat outside Siem Reap, Cambodia.  

There was sculpture after sculpture of impressive dieties, sexual prowess, and languid ladies who lent a sensual air to these fabulous temples.  The photos contained here are but the tip of the iceberg - I have way too many to post here.  I am putting more on my Facebook page for those of you who are interested.
 

Tonight is my last night here and we are going out to eat!

Dec. 18 Khajuraho

Ashish & Yogendra

I am on my first CouchSurfing stay with a lovely Indian family of five.  They live in the town of Khajuraho, famous for its brilliant temples on which are carved the entire Kama Sutra.  That's right all those positions we wonder, "how the hell did they manage that?"  The family is lovely, typical, helpful, happy, and positive.  They have given me a bedroom which I was assured was mine without disturbance.  I settled in to rest before the days activities began and Yogendra climbed into the other side of the king-size bed and began working on his laptop.  We were both huddled in our respective comforters as the weather is now very cold and it is early morning.  He soon finished and fell asleep, being tired after an early morning as he came to the train station to pick me up...the train was an hour late.

Around noon we arose, changed and set off for lunch at a local restaurant.  After lunch it was off to the temples.  We managed to see  the East Group of temples before it started getting late and cold.  We were on motorcycles, so we headed back.  After a presentation of folkloric dance at the local venue, we came back to the house for a family evening.  Everyone was piled on the bed under blankets - chatting, studying for exams, and working on peeling garlic on a tray 1/2 full of cut up onions.