June 9, 2014 Vashisht, Himachal Pradesh

Downtown Vashisht

Sunrise & Mist in the Himalayas

Vashisht is a small village about 3 km north of and on the slopes above Manali, the jumping off point for the Manali-Leh Highway, the highest in the world. Indian tourists come here for the hot spring baths, and foreign tourists for the laid-back atmosphere, hiking, and charas (hashish). Most places close from October to April due to the heavy snowfall. Some of the restaurant owners and workers go to the Goa beaches for the season and return in May.

I was referred to a guesthouse on the outskirts of town on the mountainside, and the owner came to the bus stop in Manali to pick me up. The view was good, but it afforded no privacy or quiet time. After 3 days I moved into town to the guesthouse highest up the mountain for the view. It cost less than the first one, and was a corner room with bath, balcony, WiFi, TV, and privacy. It was a good move!

My Alarm

The next morning I was awakened by a bird on the rail of my balcony. Looking out, you could see the mist above the river below as the sun rose, highlighting the snow topped peaks of the Himalayas. From here I could see more of the mountains, including the one to the north that is covered in snow...so beautiful! 

The Mall, Manali

I went to Old Manali to explore what used to be the main city. It winds up the mountain from the main part of town and has many guesthouses, restaurants, and shops. I bought a flute and hope to learn to play it! As I walked back toward town, I discovered a wonderful nature park, and paid my 5 rupees entrance fee. It was not only lovely, but a shortcut back to town. Two local women sat on the grass tending their cow that grazed nearby, as tourists pet the local dogs. The pines were tall and the grounds clean. Soon I was back in Manali and ready for lunch.

Nature Park, Manali

June 4, 2014 Manikaran, Himachal Pradesh

Hindu Temple

Hindu Temple

I decided to take a day trip to Manikaran, the next town north, to see the hot baths. The ladies' side where we went was closed, but I am not sure I wanted to get in that water anyway....

Feeding the Masses

It was hot and steamy in the largest one, Sri Guru Nanak Ji Gurdwara bath compound, with not only hot baths, but several temples as well. There was a large room, part of the Shiite Temple where food was served free of charge.  

Shiite Services

The mirror work on the walls and the ceiling was spectacular! Past the temple and up a short staircase, there was a Shiite Temple with service in progress. I was unaware that photos were forbidden, so of course, I took one!

May 26, 2014 Kasol, Himachal Pradesh, India

View from My Balcony

I took the local bus south to Bhuntar, where I made my connection for Kasol in the northern part of the Parvati Valley. It is the next to last town on the road with only a few small villages to the northeast. The sign on the bus read:

33% seats for ledies (ladies)
10% seats for children under 14 yrs.
5% seats for senior citizens
NO OVERLOAD ALLOWED!

Of course, as the school children and locals from the country going to town piled onto the bus, filling all seats and cram-packed into the aisles, I was grateful for my window seat. Both the Kullu and Parvati Valleys are known for their quality marijuana, which is not the same as the wild hemp that grows along the roads and rivers. Wild roses grow everywhere, mixing white with the many shades of green. As we climbed in altitude, I spotted the snow capped Himalayan Mountains and it reminded me of the fact that with each change of towns, I was going higher in altitude. I arrived in Kasol 3.5 hrs. later.

Himalayan Mountains

I checked into the Turquoise Cafe & Lodge, which offered a nice room with a private balcony, directly above the roaring rapids of a tributary to the Parvati River. I all but lived on this balcony for 2 weeks observing the activities of the local people. The sound of the river was a constant presence and conducive to writing, relaxing, and sleeping.

Local Inhabitants

There was a small shanty town on the opposite bank of the river. I observed their lifestyle as they gathered all the plastic water bottles in huge bags, hauled them down to their "yard", crushed them, and re-bagged them for hauling to the recycling facility to sell. I find the Indian people to be very resourceful in finding ways to live when they have no resources. I often thought that a trash system would be good.  As it is, they sweep it up in the street and burn it, or dump it down the banks of the river.

Kasol is known as the well established hippie hangout of this valley. The tourists consist mainly of Israeli youth who were recently released from the army, and are ready to party. The rest were a mixture of Indian & Western tourists, and other travelers. Many days I sat at the marble top table on the balcony, listening to the river and typing. The owner of the hotel, Pratibha, and I became great friends and shared time and tea many days. We still keep in touch, but I will miss seeing her.
 

Morning Nap

The birds soared high overhead, over the tall pines in this high mountain valley. Ravens...lots of them! They kept the town picked clean of edible waste, both on land and water. Every creature has its purpose in nature.

The hiking trails were well maintained as the locals made use of them in their daily lives. As I hiked, I observed a man with a small herd of pack animals, both horses and donkeys, taking a nap under an overhanging rock; animals were tethered and pack saddles thrown aside. This was more proof of the laid back lifestyle of this forested haven.

May 23, 2014 Kullu, Himachal Pradesh

View from Balcony

 It's 6 a.m. and the sun has turned the clouds golden as the town is starting to awaken. Mostly the dogs and cows are up. I can see the bus stop down the hill and the first one will be pulling out soon. This is a quiet town where life rolls on and no one seems to be bothered by what others do. There is a difference in the ethnicity which is evident in a different style of dress and a more Asian look, clearly Tibetan/Nepali influence.

Kullu is divided by the Sarvari River, which swiftly flows below my balcony. The bus station is north of the river along with an extensive fruit and vegetable market, and the hotels and cafés uphill to the south. The footbridge across the river is populated by cows soaking up the sun, vendors from the countryside, the regular foot traffic, and the occasional motorcycle. The main shopping street going south up the hill is foot traffic only as there is a low, heavy chain that crosses the street on either end.

Laundry Time

Wild Hemp

I watched as two men did laundry on the huge rocks that fill the riverbed below, while another fished a bit further upstream. Marijuana grows wild by the road, along the river, and pretty much everywhere. It is one of the largest cash crops in these mountain valleys, although I am quite sure the government would deny that. It is not advisable to hike up in the woods here as you may inadvertently run across a marijuana farm and they are protected at gunpoint. Dozens of tourists have vanished in these high mountain valleys, particularly the next valley over, the Parvati Valley.

I managed to find WiFi yesterday in a photocopy shop, but I have yet to see an internet cafe. ATMs are scarce as well, but I stocked up on rupees before I left Shimla. Well, it's time to order chai now so I will post more later.

May 18, 2014 Shimla

May 18, 2014  Shimla

Shimla, the former summer capital of India, is a quaint town with colonial British architecture. If it were not for the hundreds of affluent Indian tourists, from as far away as southern India, you would not think you were in the same country.

I sat in a cafe in Scandal Point, the center of town, and watched tourists pose for photos, sit with their sweetie, stroll by holding hands, and enjoy their holidays in the northern mountains. I know it is a cultural difference, but I have never seen so many men walking holding hands or with their arms around each other. The streets are pristine clean, possibly due to the laws posted forbidding throwing trash on the ground or spitting.  That would be a 500 rupee fine!

Hills of Shimla

The food is tasty with a good mixture of cuisine, but the waiters could work in Manhattan they are so somber and abrupt! That's a first for me in India as everyone is always so helpful and friendly to me here.

Shimla's famous Jakhu Temple sits almost to the top of the hill with a pink statue of Hanuman, the monkey god, towering above the town. There are numerous examples of British architecture, including the Town Hall, the mock-Tudor post office, the Gothic Offices of the Accountant General, and a bit above Shimla, the Rothney Castle.

I only saw 3 Western travelers here, 2 Brits, and 1 from Australia. It is season here and the rooms are hard to come by and double the normal price. I only stayed 2 days, then took the bus to Kullu, which is further north on the road to Manali.