Oct 3 Ranakpur

Niche at the Jain Temple, Ranakpur

Today is my birthday and Himanshu (business partner) has gotten us a taxi to Ranakpur to see the Jain Temple.  It is one of India's largest and most important Jain temples with domed ceilings and crystal chandeliers, gods and demons carved on columns.  Built in 1439, it's an incredible milk-white marble building with a complicated series of 29 halls supported by 1444 columns, no two of which are alike.  The pale interior has a calming sense of space and harmony and is quite breath taking!

We left at 9am and after a short stretch of highway, the road turned into barely paved, narrow roads through small villages.  A creek ran alongside for a short way with a small herd of water buffalo submerged with only backs and heads showing above water.  The buffalo we saw grazing alongside the road were poorly with heavy hide shining as it was stretched over very prominent bones.  The fields of dry corn stalks sat after harvest and were slowly carried away by women in saris in large bundles on their heads headed home to feed the milk cows.  Old scarecrows stood in the midst of the dry stalks clothed in bright saris.

The car paused for herds of goats and donkeys herded by children to their grazing spots for the day.  Two bulls turned a large wheel attached to a water wheel that carried water to irrigate the fields.  Men sat in large turbans drinking their morning chai as a camel hauling hay passed by.  A dead cow lay beside the road, half eaten and dried up, left to rot in the sun.  It looked like it had been there for quite some time.  Monkeys played at the stream's edge as others sat being groomed...and the small car bounced on down the road.

We finally arrived at the temple after a 90 km drive.  Himanshu suffers from motion sickness and needed a nap after the bouncy ride.  He was just too nauseous and unable to walk into the temple to marvel at the wonder.  I will gladly go back with anyone who visits us here and next time will get some Dramamine for Himanshu!

Sept 26 Ganesha's Birthday

Ganesha's Birthday at the Clock Tower

It appears the monsoons have come to an end after a very short run here in Rajasthan.  The lakes are full to overflow, everything is green and the weather is starting to cool, at least in the night.  I believe we still have a ways to go before the cool weather really sets in, but I am on my rooftop enjoying the cool morning with a cup of chai.

There was some sort of parade/celebration with camel drawn floats a few days ago that passed down City Palace Road.  The floats were mainly comprised of camel drawn flat bed carts with large effigies of saints, surrounded by priests in saffron robes, waving to the crowd that gathered on the sidewalk.  I think it must have been part of the Ganesha 10-day celebration that is going on right now.

Yesterday was an exciting day as I finally found a scooter worthy of purchase.  It is a 2009 TVS Scooty Pep+ in metallic purple...so cute!  And small enough for me to handle, although I have only ridden on the back so far.  Now to get my driving lesson and start trying to figure out not only how to drive here, but to find my way around the narrow streets of the old town where I live!

The new jewelry shop is almost ready to open; hopefully this weekend as it is some sort of 2-week period starting next week when it is not auspicious to start a new enterprise of any kind.  My house set-up and personal shopping have almost fallen by the wayside as we (business partner & I) get lighting prepared for the display, order busts, business cards, a sign, paint walls, and lay flooring.  The display counters are built and painted and last, but not least, placing the jewelry for display.  I set up a Facebook page and a new email account for the shop, I am ready to open!

Well, I am going down to wash and shine my new Scooty and get prepared for the day.  I hope everyone is well and as happy as I am!

Sept 6 Bhattyani Chotta

Walkway to City Palace Road 

Bhattyani Chotta is the neighborhood where I live just to the east of the City Palace. Lake Palace Road, one of the main streets, runs north and south and is the street where I walk Toulouse every morning and evening.  Now whoever said squirrels & chipmunks were the same as rats didn't see the rats running back and forth across the walkway that runs off this street to my front door.  These things are huge - bigger than any squirrel I've ever seen!  So every day you gather all the food scraps from cooking into a bag, and in the morning, you dump them to the side of the walkway for the cows, dogs, chipmunks, and yes, the rats.  What they say is that when you make chapatti (flat bread), you make the first ones for the cows, then the family, then the dogs.  I guess the rats are next....

Yesterday the monkeys decided to play with Toulouse.  The young ones were jumping on the clothes line, bouncing up and down to tantalize her.  Then they ran across the short wall within her reach - of course, they are faster than her.   She did manage to nip one of their tails and it squealed, which brought hoots and hollers from the adults and many bared teeth!  I was worried for a moment as they were surrounding us on top of all the walls of my rooftop, but they soon calmed down and continued to play, the small babies huddled next to their mother's breast, nursing.

It has been raining daily and we still have many things to buy, both for the house and the new shop.  The shop painting is done, but we are waiting for it to dry as the humidity is usually 80% or more.  Yesterday we took a rickshaw to the market to get a wall mounted fan for the shop just as the rain started.  The streets flooded, but we were able to get there and back and to buy not only the fan, but a new water purifier.  It will save me a ton of money as I go through several liters of bottled water daily.  Not to mention the plastic bottles...at least they are recycled.

I saw a small mouse come in through my bedroom window and run across the floor to a hole in my closet. Oh my God!  It is still there today as I heard it rummaging in the trash this morning, then saw it slip out and run back to the hole.  Toulouse goes crazy, but can't catch it...hopefully!  Now I need to figure out how it got past the screen and closed window and put a stop to it.  Then to get a trap so I can catch it and take it back out to the street to release it.  I don't need it to die, just to leave my house!

Slowly but surely, I am adjusting to life in India.  They say it takes about a year to make this type of adjustment and I believe it!  It is a much bigger change than I remembered making when I moved to Nicaragua.  Of course there I had the Peace Corps to guide me.  I am still cooking on one burner as I need to buy a set of burners and get a large gas tank, but I am managing.  I still do not have all the pans I need and no set of dishes.  I bought some cheap plastic bowls & 2 plates to fill in until I have time to find what I need.  I really think I need a scooter, although I am petrified to drive here, not to mention getting lost on these narrow winding streets.  The wash is another thing as I am doing most of it by hand while taking the pants and shirts to the laundry.  At least I got a new iron for a little over $7 so I can iron some things myself.  A washing machine would be great!

Aug 23 Udaipur

Toulouse - Just moved in!

I am now fully ensconced in my new home.  I have all new ceiling fans, bed, fridge, LED TV, and air conditioner.  The clothes pins are on the line and the landlord has fixed the water tank so I now have a constant supply of water.  Now for some furniture and transportation...maybe a scooter?  

The days are flying by as I have been so busy setting up the house and making plans for a jewelry shop.  I need to find an English speaking attorney for the agreement between Himanshu and myself before I start spending money on it.  He just bought paint and will start work on it today. The previous tenant painted it a hideous shade of pink/red that now has to be covered as well as the

View of the City Palace from my roof terrace!

concrete sealed.

Toulouse has adjusted well and looks forward to her walks 3x a day.  Everyone in the streets already knows her name and even the people on bikes passing by slow down to see this unusual dog.  The dogs here tend to have short hair and I never see any with short legs and curly hair.  They just want to feel that wooly fur.  She is due for a grooming and I have to find clippers as well.  Just finding everything you need is a challenge.

It's 7 am and I can smell the spicy food cooking already as they eat it for breakfast as well as every other meal.  My system just can't handle all that spice, so I am glad I have a semi-functioning kitchen - now to find time to cook.  Maybe I'll boil some rice this morning and find vegies to stir fry in my new pan.  You really don't have a grasp on all the conveniences we have in the states until you try to run a house here without them.

I am on the roof top terrace and the monkeys just came running across the top of my walls - Toulouse went crazy!  She has now sniffed noses with her first cow and barked at her first monkey troop.  It's a cool morning, in the 70s, cloudy, as Udaipur wakes up.  The children are in school and I can hear them singing.

Aug 14 Udaipur

Milkman

The rain continues to fall as the monsoon season is now in full swing.  It's 7am and the school children are on their way to school in their clean pressed uniforms; some in brown, some with checks of red and green, and the government school uniforms of khaki pants & blue shirts for boys, and girls in blue & white.  The street sweepers are out in the drizzle cleaning the streets & gutters, and women in saris walk past with the colorful cloth pulled over their head to ward off the rain.  Families go by on scooters, 3 deep, with umbrellas.  The milkman rides a motorcycle in full rain attire, pants & rain jacket with hood, milk cans strapped to the back sides.  There are several kayaks on the lake this morning as well; something I haven't seen before.  The weather is cool now with no need for air conditioning; a fan being sufficient. 

It's Cow's Day, the 12th day after the full moon, and the women are dressed in red saris, with trays full of flowers, are on their way to decorate the cows in the street with vermillion powder, red strings to tie on the legs, necks, & horns, and to do an arti to bless them.  There are so many of these traditions & rituals in the Hindu faith, which keeps their way of life fully integrated into their beliefs.  They truly live their religion and their faith in the Hindu gods is strong.  This is such a rich culture that I can only touch the tip of the iceberg of understanding.  It fascinates me daily and I am so glad I moved here to be a small part of this complex country.

My new house should be painted and ready either today or tomorrow and I can start shopping!  I am so excited to have my own space, top to bottom and lucky to have found a place with privacy in the old city.  It is a narrow place with all marble floors & stairs, sandwiched between 2 large houses with a living room and bath on the first level, then up to the kitchen, which has a long granite counter top, the next floor is the bedroom and the next a rooftop terrace with a half bath and a view of the City Palace - awesome!  I can hardly wait to buy plants for my outdoor space.  Once I get the basics of a hotel room (bed, sheets, fan) bought, I can move in and continue to furnish it.  Himanshu has a small gas tank with a burner on top I can borrow so I can make chai in the morning.  Life is simple here and all is as it should be.

Aug 8 Hanuman Ghat, Udaipur

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Camels on Parade

I just witnessed the most wonderful celebration / parade on the street in front of Himanshu's shop!  A decorated elephant, floats, lovely girls in costume, horses with embellished harnesses, Policemen standing by, women and children watching from windows, and camels to pull the floats.  Oh yes, we can't forget the jamming music in tow with young men gyrating to the sound. Fun times!  Now I am in Millets of Mewar having a banana date shake with coconut milk...life is truly sweet! 

Rajasthani Man in Turban

This morning as I walked Toulouse at 7 am, before the sidewalk cafes on the waterfront opened, there where the tables and chairs normally sit, were 2 rats about 6" long, not counting the tail, on their hind legs playing!  I just stood there for a few minutes and watched, they reminded me of a couple of kittens at play.  I don't particularly like rats, but it was the cutest thing!  Of course Toulouse wanted to chase them and they scampered away trying to climb a metal pole, not, and the nearby wall.  I pulled on her leash and we walked on.

Now the eagle size bats fill the sky on their night journey helping reduce the mosquito population.  Such an important task here, especially during the monsoon. Go, bats, go!

August 6 Udaipur

Himanshu

As I sit having chai at Raju's haveli on the corner, the school children in their uniforms, backpacks full of books & papers, pile into the small auto rickshaws, sitting on each others laps on their way to class.  Toulouse is at my feet as is Raju's dog, Bruno, her new best friend.  When I walk her, he always comes with us and protects her from the street dogs.  

I can hear the worshipers chanting at the nearby temple as cows stroll by looking for food thrown out on the streets for them.  Their diet seems to consist of people's leftovers, whatever they can forage from the trash cans, and the occasional bundle of grass carried in by the local women.  I think the camels have it a bit better as they pull the carts and look well fed.

Life slips by in peace as I look for a more permanent home. We have looked at 3 places so far and haven't quite found what we are looking for...one was in someone's home, one turned out to be great, but was in a bad neighborhood, and the 3rd one was just too small.  I feel sure we can find something in our budget as all of these were less than I expected. I can't believe I have been here almost 3 weeks.

Camel - Udaipur

The monkeys are playing in the temple and I see a new black baby.  Although the languor monkey has grey hair with a black face, the little ones are solid black, and so cute.  They scamper around and one jumped off the platform only to find it could not get back up as it was too tall.  His mother promptly jumped down to collect him.  I could watch them for hours, and sometimes do.

Although we are not officially in tourist season, they are here, as Udaipur is one of the main tourist attractions in the state of Rajasthan.  We have palaces and forts, ghats and shopping, monkeys and parrots, and lakes in the middle of town.  The sun sets behind the Aravali mountains, highlighting the Monsoon Palace perched on the precipice of the tallest one.  Peace and beauty!

July 31 Udaipur

Room #108, Hanuman Ghat Hotel

I awoke to the sound of rain falling with Toulouse cuddled by my side.  My new room, I changed hotels yesterday, has screened windows on 2 sides as I have the room on the top floor corner.  I get a view of the lake on one side and the temple on the other...life is good!  Now the rain has stopped, I walked he dog, and am waiting in the restaurant for my milk coffee and papaya porridge.   Shared a table and conversation with Lin from China.  Unfortunately, she is getting ready to check out and is on her way to Mumbai tonight on the night train.

It is still drizzling rain and of course, Toulouse had to go out the minute I got back.  I am so glad I brought an umbrella.  They are putting a flat screen in today and taking this large dinosaur of a TV they just put in here, out.  That will free up the entire corner of the room and with all this luggage, I could use the space.

I am so thrilled with the new battery I got for this netbook - the charge lasts 6 1/2 hours, and with a modem stick I am good when the power cut happens and can still use the internet.  Speaking of which, the grid for northern India had an outage that affected the entire northern part of India, 22 states, including Rajasthan.  It went out a 2:30am yesterday and didn't come back on until late afternoon.  It was like a steam bath in the room.  I was glad to be checking out.

March 15, 2012 Bus from Agra to Delhi - Stranded!

I wish I had a picture of the bus, after it hit the car in front of us.  After a late start, the bus made its way from Agra, where we visited the Taj Mahal, to Delhi.  Unfortunately, it rear-ended the car in front of it around 9 pm and the car's driver and passengers got out with pipes and proceeded to bust out the front windshield of the bus in anger.  Then they started down the sides, breaking glass and sending it flying inside.  Himanshu pulled me down to protect me, then someone shouted, "stop it! there are children in here!"  The mayhem stopped, except now we were stranded about an hour south of Delhi with a bus driver who was no where to be found!

Thank goodness we were only on a day trip and had no luggage locked in the back.  No one spoke English, so I was doubly thankful for Himanshu who managed to get us a rickshaw to the bus station.  Although it was closed, a bus going to Delhi pulled in with seats available.  We finally arrived back at the hotel around midnight!  Quite a day trip!

July 29, 2012 Udaipur

Elephant on Street in Udaipur

There is a bird here that sounds like a cat meowing!  I finally saw one yesterday, but still don't know the name of it.  It is a large bird with a long bill; black with white & brown. 

I went to Hanuman Ghat yesterday, my old stomping ground, and was pleasantly surprised at the number of people who greeted me with a "so glad to see you back".  It gave me that warm & fuzzy feeling of coming home after being away a long time.  The hotel I stayed in when I first arrived is under new management and insisted on showing me a room.  It was large with a nice view, bath, AC, my very own tiny hot water heater, and they will put a flat screen on the wall - all for 100 rupees less than I am paying here.  There is everything you need in that area; good restaurants, small stores, local vegies & fruit, Himanshu's shop, and most importantly, friends!  The streets were unbelievably clean, no cow poop everywhere, clean swept, and it is much closer to town.  Walking back, an elephant strolled past me on the street...I love India!

Toulouse

Himanshu & Dinesh Cooking

his morning as I walked to my favorite chai stand with Toulouse, five, skinny Jain priests walked in front of me; three completely naked, one with a diaper-looking cloth on, and one with a shawl...all righty then!  They believe covering the body is unnecessary...to each his own.  Most of the population here is Hindu, with a sprinkling of Buddhists, and the temples are numerous.  These were the first Jain priests I have seen.  There is a day trip from here to Ranakpur, where there is a famous Jain temple.  It contains 1,444 columns, each exquisitely carved with different scenes and very elaborate.  I still need to go see it; perhaps when my friends visit this winter we can go.  I hear it is a "must see" for this area. 

July 25 Udaipur

Temple on Lake Palace Road

As I sit on the roof top of the Shambhu Vilas Hotel, the brilliant green parrots fly across the sky and alight on the cell tower close by.  My sweet dog, Toulouse is at my feet and a cup of chai sits before me.  I am quite a ways from my old neighborhood of Hanuman Ghat on the other side of the lake, but right next to a huge park that has not only a lovely rose garden, but a public library in an ornate, old building.  I haven't been in it yet, but will have to explore it at some point.  There is also a zoo, which was closed yesterday when I walked through with Alexandra, a young woman staying at the same hotel.  She trains and owns horses in her homeland of Germany.  As is usually the case with the travelers I meet, she is quite a bit younger than I, but we found we have a lot in common.

It is great to be with Himanshu again after 4 months of emails, calls, texts, and Skype...not quite like being able to have someone's arms around you.   Due to the tourist police here, we have not been able to go anywhere on the bike together.  Since he does not have a guide's license, he cannot be seen traveling with me as they are quite aggressive about stopping you for no other reason than to harass you and in fact, they would take him to jail claiming he was working as a guide without a license.  I feel so restricted by this new phenomenon of tourist "protection" that began this year.  They actually slap these guys when they stop them!  Unbelievable!  Consequently, he has been taking my list to the market to pick up the things I need.  He has helped me so much by finding me a hotel that will take my dog, to all the little things I would be hard pressed to do on my own.

Vidya & Alexandra

Although we are in monsoon season, the state of Rajasthan does not get the torrential downpour like other parts of the country - it has only rained once since I arrived on the 20th of this month.  However, the season is much cooler and the mornings are breezy with no need for air conditioning.

I am practicing my patience as the laws here are not what I was lead to believe - not by deception, but lack of knowledge.  I had hopes of putting in a guesthouse/hotel, but everything here is so convoluted in comparison to the states; not to mention the corruption.  It would simplify things if we got married, but the judge doesn't even like it if they marry someone who is not from India!  This has put my apartment hunting on hold as well, as I may have to leave the country in 6 months for a 2 month period before I can return...yes, another very different law. 

Feb. 26 Udaipur

Ancient Carved Stone in Wheat Field

We took an hour and a half ride through the country side to the reach the village of my friend, Himanshu's, maternal uncle.  The road went from highway to gravel as we drove further into India's interior. 

The village was a quiet one which is not visited often, and quite possibly never by westerners.  People came from their homes to see the stranger - children giggled and adults unabashedly stared at my blue eyes, light hair, and white skin. 

Making Paparie

His uncle's home was a 150 year old home and was built with a stable downstairs for the cow and newborn calf, and the residence upstairs.  The bull lay in the walkway outside the gate; protecting his interest, no doubt.  The roof was rough tile and the walls brick, covered with a smooth surface of concrete and white paint. As we lie in the sun to warm up, his cousin laid out paparie (like a thin corn tortilla with spices) on straw to dry in the sun.  After drying, they are stored in a tin box to be deep fried as needed.  Very tasty, I might say.  I liked them so much, she cooked some up to send with me! Yum!

Irrigation Well

After a relaxing lunch, Himanshu, his uncle, and I hopped on the motorcycle to head out to the fields to see his farm land.  He had wheat fields, and various vegetables & herbs, with natural fences of cactus to separate the plots.  There was a deep kund (large well with steps leading into the water), that had a spring in the bottom for irrigation.  Quite a nice set-up!

On the ride back, we stopped at the local museum, which told the history of the Mewar Maharaja who was fierce in battle turning back the Mughal invasion many times, and his horse, Chetak, who was fearless and ran 5km with a fatal injury to save his master, after which time he lay down and died.  There is a statue in the traffic circle commemorating him in Udaipur - Chetak Circle.

Feb. 20 Udaipur

Shiva's Birthday Celebration

Today is Shiva's birthday and there was a large celebration here in Hanuman Ghat.  I saw blocks of ice being carved and thought it would be something elaborate.  Instead, they just made a dip in the top and painted and decorated the sides of the huge blocks of ice.  



It looked very interesting, but the rice pudding they were dishing out was the best part!  I do love the lifestyle here.

Feb. 16 Udaipur

Sunset at Monsoon Palace

I went to Monsoon Palace today with my friend Himanshu for the sunset...how beautiful!  Perched on top of the distant mountain range like a fairytale castle, this late 19th century palace was once an astronomical center, which later became a monsoon palace and hunting lodge.  Now government owned, it is open to the public, but while there is not much to see inside, it has the quintessential sunset view!

Feb 13 Udaipur.

Monsoon Palace overlooking Udaivillas Hotel

Palaces and forts located on hilltops, serene lakes and tales of valor, make Udaipur a jewel among the cities of the state of Rajasthan. There are a large number of temples, havelis, and many green parks and gardens. It is culturally rich as it is a center of performing arts and crafts. Founded in 1568, Udaipur was the capital of the Rajput kingdom of Mewar and was only integrated with the rest of the country when India was liberated.

Rajasthan really is a unique place with its strong tribal customs, ladies who still cover their heads with their sari, and in some villages must cover even their face if a man other than family enter their home. They have high cheekbones and distinct facial structure making them very handsome people.

My Window Seat

The guesthouse where I am currently "living" is one of my favorites so far, except for the noise. The Little Prince Guest House is located in a very old part of the city called the Hanuman Ghat area and is set in a residential neighborhood. It has 5 floors with a rooftop seating area as well as a restaurant with a view of Lake Pichola, the Lake Palace Hotel, Jagmandir Island, and the sunset over the mountains next to Monsoon Palace. It is a new establishment and everything is new, fresh, and is kept very clean. If it were not for the noise at 3-4am and at night until midnight, you might even get to sleep without earplugs!

Chipmunk Sunning outside my Window

Night in the Chowk

The guesthouse is very much a family affair. The owner has his nephews and other extended family members working and you are treated as one of the family. My room on the 3rd floor has a fabulous window seat with windows opening onto the rooftops of the neighboring homes with a backdrop of the Monsoon Palace, the sunset, and the surrounding mountains. I spend a lot of time lounging here working on my computer, reading, and just watching life in this area. There is a chowk (open area) in front of the hotel with a parking area, short water tower, and hand pump. The homes that do not have running water, of which there are many in this older area, have to pump and carry water to their homes. You can hear the pumping start as early as 5 am and it is not even light. Water is carried in buckets, urns of ceramic & stainless steel, and various other containers, large and small. Everyone pumps and carries water - men, women & children.

Feb 11 Gokarna to Ahmedabad

I got up about 5:30 this morning and lie in my hammock for about an hour waiting on daylight, then had a stroll on the beach before the sun rose.  The small fishing boats are out in the bay for the early morning catch and a brilliant blue kingfisher is sitting on the hotel sign.  Life is sweet!

The procession of women will start soon as they haul all supplies for the restaurants and hotels.  Picking up cases of water, food, and provisions, balancing them on their heads, they climb down the hill and walk across the bay in sand for delivery; then back up for another load.

I have noticed that in the southern part of India, there are more women working in the shops, restaurants, and hotels as opposed to the north where men do the cooking, cleaning, and run the shops.  From what I understand, in the state of Kerala it is mostly a matriarchal society... interesting in a country where men are the dominating force of society.

Well, time to go up the hill to catch a rickshaw to the train station.  I got a porter from the hotel to carry my bag to the top of the hill on his head, and made my way to the train station.  Now I find out that the only train already left and I will have to take a taxi all the way to the airport for a cost of 2,500 rupees (approx. $50)!  Oh well, I got there in time for my flight to Ahmedabad, then after 5 hours, I get the overnight train back to Udaipur.

Feb 10 Kudle Beach

Best Friends

Sunset at Kudle Beach

I had a good night's sleep with the sound of the ocean all I could hear.  It is so peaceful here!  I got up early and did laundry before walking on the beach.  People are meditating, doing yoga, jogging past cows arising and dogs playing - everyone's enjoying the morning sunrise.  

There are 2 good friends, a duck and a rooster, who visit my yard daily, so I put out a container of water.

This is my last day here and I can certainly see why some people come here year after year and stay the whole season.  I lie in my hammock most of the day yesterday and edited photos on my netbook between naps.  I am glad my cough, cold, and lung infection are finally gone as I return to the north tomorrow.

The men here wear lungis, both short (mid-thigh) and long (ankle length) and sometimes nothing else - how comfortable!

Children in school uniforms, old ladies with canes, women in saris balancing bundles on their heads, and workers carrying tiffins to their jobs...I sit drinking masala chai and the Arabian Sea washes the shore clean.

Feb 9 Kudle Beach, Gokarna

Kudle Beach

Today I ran into Ali from Iran that I met in Hampi.  He's only staying a couple of days.  We chatted awhile and after, Niki and I walked toward town with our empty water bottles.  It seems there is a temple on top of the hill with a fresh water spring that comes out of a pipe and we filled all our bottles with fresh water.

Sandcastle

Gokarna is a small town on the other side of the hill from Kudle Beach with a proper beach of its own.  We had a great time shopping and I bought 24 glass bangles, a long sleeve Ganesh t-shirt for my return to cold weather, and a hammock.  The hammocks here are made of what looks like heavy parachute material in 2 colors with a rope run through each end...and they are awesome!  Of course, I tied it wrong, got in it, and promptly fell on my backside from about 3' up.  The good news was that I fell on the dirt and not the tile porch!  Ouch!!!

Feb 6 - 7 Hampi to Gokarna

Cottage at Kudle Beach

Today, I have a ticket from Hospet (next town west of here), by bus to Kudle Beach, Gokarna where I will meet up with Niki again...I have missed her!  The bus left Hospet about 6:30 pm and I took a Valium to sleep.

I slept well until 3 am when I was awakened with the rest of the passengers going to Gokarna to get off the bus and into a much smaller one that was going to Gokarna as the one we were on was going to Goa!  The second bus was built for 16-18 people, however, we crowded 28 people onto it while the driver roped the backpacks onto the top.  Now that we were on our way, the driver started playing music as loud as the stereo would play.  We were all half asleep and not in the mood for loud music, much less Snoop Dog singing "I Want to Fuck You" full blast!  I asked him to turn it down with no response...perhaps he did not speak English?  So I reached up to the speaker next to my head and yanked the speaker wire out...ahhhh, much better!

At the bus station, I shared a rickshaw with another girl and off we went toward Kudle Beach...at 4am!  They dropped us at the Yoga Farm at the top of the hill/path leading down to the beach.  After climbing down the hill, with Niki carrying my suitcase, we reached the beach.  It was a full moon and I must say, between the moon and the sound of the ocean, it was a wonderful place to be!  We went to her beach cabin and I got a room there for the rest of the night.  The next morning after breakfast we went in search of a better place for me to stay.  I found a wonderful cabin with a privacy fence around the front area, a porch to hang a hammock, and a lovely cabin with bath, tile floors, mosquito net - almost right on the beach...nice!

Feb. 6 Hampi

Lotus Mahal

I hired a rickshaw today to explore the outlying temples and see the famous stone chariot.  We arrived at the Zanana Enclosure which houses the Lotus Mahal, a two-storied structure that is a blend of Indian and Islamic architecture.  It is a beautiful old structure and in its original state it was fully decorated, painted, and covered with polished lime plaster work.

Elephant Stables

On the corners of the enclosure stand 3 fairly intact watchtowers that are not attached to any walls, suggesting they are of a later date.  The palace situated in the center was the largest in the city of Vijayanagara.

Next came the lofty, dignified, elephant stables north of the Zanana enclosure.  It has eleven large chambers with beautiful arched entrances.  The domes on the top are of different types - circular, ribbed and octagonal - and are arrranged in order on either side of the central chamber, which is a square structure on top.  Each chamber has a lotus motif on the ceiling.

Stone Chariot

Next we went to see the Stone Chariot at the Vitthala Temple.  The temple dates to the 1400s, has 100 pillars, and is dedicated to Vishnu.  The pillars are decorated with carvings of  gods, women, dancers, and drummers.  Thick stone rings at the corners were for stone chains to be attached. The stone charriot of this temple is a remarkable structure.  All the intricate and delicate details found in the wooden chariots are simulated in this stone chariot...it was amazing!

There are so many temples here, I think it would take quite some time to see them all.  But this evening, I have a bus ticket to Gokarna on the coast to meet up with Niki, my friend from the U.K.

Feb. 5 Hampi

View from Hanuman Temple

Met Ali from Iran as I walked toward the boat dock early this morning.  We stopped to chat over chai and decided to share a bike to go to the Hanuman Temple.  After mounting 572 stairs, we marveled at the view from the temple.  Below, the river wound its way through the rock-strewn landscape reflecting the morning sun...so beautiful!  The white painted temple itself was not all that, but the location could not be beat! 

Virupaksha temple

On the way back across the river on the ferry boat, we noticed 2 motorcycles coming across the river in one of the round boats we saw on the other side.  The boats appear to be made of split bamboo, straw, and tar to seal them.  We watched as they stood the cycle on its back tire and rolled it toward the edge of the boat.  Then dropping the front tire on the bank, they rolled it all the way off to the ground - all in all an amazing feat!

Ali had to catch the 4pm bus, so I wandered around town and visited the Virupaksha temple in the middle of town.  It is considered the most sacred temple in Hampi and has an elephant as a permanent resident.  It is taken to the river daily for its bath, then returned to the temple complex where he is stabled.  The 52 meter high gopura is the main entrance to the temple.  It is a well proportioned, nine storied structure, with a 2-tiered stone base and a brick superstructure.  Both its ornate carvings and large size make it a noteworthy entrance to this fascinating temple compound.

Feb. 2 Hampi

Boat Landing

Nandi Carved in River Rock

Went to breakfast with my new friends, Julie & Steve, to the Paradise Garden situated on the river and overlooking the mountains on the other side.  After muesli, fruit, & curd, Steve and I made our way to the small temple at the bottom of the ghats, in the edge of the river that served as a boat dock to go to the other side.

Upon reaching the other side, for a cost of 15 Rupees, we climbed the hill to the top and reached a small community of stores, restaurants, guesthouses, and bike rental places.  We rented a small motorcycle and took off for the surrounding countryside to go exploring.  Rice paddies, banana plantations, and sugar cane fields dominated the landscape for miles with temples sprinkled among them.  It could not have been a better day!

I am having trouble getting a phone signal here as we are so far removed from "civilization".  It is probably just as well as I seem to go through my phone minutes so quickly anyway.

Feb. 1 Hampi, Karnataka

After another overnight bus ride, I arrived in Hampi, home to 1,500 temples and the most stunning landscape ever!  The prior capital of the Vajayanagara empire, today Hampi is a small village on the southern bank of the Tungabhadra River.  The ruins here include some of the finest specimens of medieval Indian architecture and include not only religious temples, but military and civil structures.  It is an amazing place!

On my first day, I got invited to come on a hike with 2 French-Canadians, and a guy from France.  We set off down the road, passing through banana plantations, the plants laden with stalks of bananas in various stages of development. After about 3km we came to a large area of huge black rocks which we climbed over, around, and down, and arrived at the rapids area.  I submerged my feet in the cool water causing a large spray and accompanying rainbow - fabulous!  I could have sat here for hours, but we once again mounted the rocks, many of which I needed a hand to ascend.

On the road back to town, we decided to go north on up the hill overlooking the town to the Krishna Temple complex.  It was a very impressive edifice with elaborate carvings on the inner side of the gate as well as the temple itself with its many decorated columns.  Dating to 1513 AD, this large and ornate temple complex contains fine stucco figures of warriors with shields, spirited horses and elephants.

Jan 26 - 30, 2012 Udaipur to Palolem, Goa

Ruins of Lake Pichola Palace

Boats on Palolem Beach

Not much of anything to note for the past 3 weeks here in Udaipur.  I have looked at a couple of houses with awesome views from the rooftop, which is where one spends a lot of time here.  Both were more than I want to pay, so I am thinking about a flat/apartment with a balcony as the flats are usually more modern, but in the newer part of town.  I think I would like living in the older part of the city, but it will be a challenge to find something that has been updated with modern facilities such as running water, a kitchen sink, and a western toilet with shower.  I would probably still have to install a small hot water heater...I could do that!

Jan. 26th/27th - After a 12 hour night train from Udaipur to Ahmedabad, an eight hour wait in the airport, then 2 hour flight to Goa on the 27th, I caught the local bus for a 1 hour ride to the bus station where I got another bus for a 2.5 hour stint to Palolem beach - altogether a 25 1/2 hr. trip.  Upon arrival I began my search for a hotel with a referral I had gotten to the Dreamcatcher Bungalows near the beach.  Upon hearing the price of 1500 rupees per night, I immediately departed as that was about 3x what I was ready to pay!  Pulling my suitcase through sand (an almost impossible task and missing my backpack) for quite some way, I was back on the main road.  After 3-4 hotels, which either had no hot water, were overpriced or dirty, I finally settled on a rather nice, large room with bath & tv, no AC, for 600 rupees per night.  That's a bit better!

Street leading to Palolem Beach

Jan. 28-30th - I had been anxious to leave the cold weather as I had gotten a very nasty cold which had settled in my chest and it felt like my lungs were quickly filling up with the yellow/green sputum I coughed up and blew out regularly.  By the morning after my arrival (28th), I could barely make it down the stairs to ask the owner of the hotel to call me a doctor to my room as I was unable to go to him.  A very nice doctor with impeccable English, arrived within 20 min.  Thank heavens I had no fever or he would have put me in the hospital!  The owner took my prescription to the pharmacy and brought me a regimen of antobiotics, cough syrup with expectorate, and something to break down the mucus.  The hotel delivered my meals & water for that day and I was only able to get out the next day to eat.  Now here it is the 30th and I am going to try to make it to the pharmacy for more antibiotics, to the ATM, and hopefully to the beach, which I have yet to see!

After walking 2 km in the heat, it dawned on my that I could hitchhike to town and back!  Waving my hand at the single men on bikes, it didn't take long for one to stop to let me on behind him on his motorcycle.  Wind in my hair, I whizzed the 3rd km to the middle of town, which held the pharmacy and the atm.  It took 2 atm's & 2 pharmacies to conclude my business then I took advantage of the nearby bakery & fruitstand.  Now to hitch back to the hotel, change into my swimsuit and hit the beach!  Woo Hoo!!!

Dec. 31, 2011 New Year's Eve in Udaipur

Hotel Udaivillas, Monsoon Palace on Hill - Udaipur

New Year's Eve, time to party and dance!  But first, something to wear, which meant a trip to the tailor yesterday to order a red top to go with the red flowered silk skirt I bought in Pushkar.  Then I realized I didn't have a jacket so I bought a red wool shawl with unique embroidery work to keep me warm.  That and a pair of tights under the skirt should do it as the nights here are quite chilly.

Nicola and I walked across the footbridge toward town to find a party we heard about at the Pushkar Cafe.  After eating a bit, we went toward the music on the other level of the cafe.  I guess they were shy or something, because Niki had to pull these tourists onto the dance floor.  After that we simply wore ourselves out dancing until midnight.  Fun times and a New Year's Eve I won't forget!

BTW: I have decided not to go to Nepal as planned as I am getting sicker and my lungs really feel congested with the infection I have gotten.  It is extremely cold there (0 degrees C) at night with no heat in the rooms.

Dec. 28 Jaipur to Udaipur

Krishna Palace Heritage Hotel

Still trying to get to Udaipur for New Year's eve with my friends!  On arrival in Jaipur, I headed for a hotel located close to the train station in Bani Park.  The Krishna Palace was a historic old mansion that had been converted into a beautiful hotel.  After negotiations, I checked in and was shown to my room, a very large room with a western style bath (both a western toilet and a squat toilet), seating area, kingsize bed, 2 closets, and shuttered windows that opened onto a lovely garden area.  The rooftop cafe overlooked the residential neighborhood, which was clean and quiet compared to the rest of this approx. 3 mil population city.  Both peaceful and unpolluted, nice!  I tested the bed and was immediately sorry I could not spend the night in this comfortable room!  I settled for a hot shower, lunch on the rooftop, and a few hours rest.

After multiple traffic jams, I barely made it to the train station on time.  The rickshaw pulled up, signaled for a porter, gave him directions in Hindi.  Placing my heavy bag on his head and carrying the other, we were off in a dead run for the Mewar Express.  I thought I would die as I ran up 2 flights of steps to the crossover to my platform.  I had to stop twice to breathe as he ran on.  Oh my goodness!  We made it to my berth with barely a minute to spare...now to catch my breath! 

I am getting further into the state of Rajasthan and it is beginning to warm up, which should do a world of good for this cough I have developed.  Max form The Little Prince Guest House, is picking me up at 6:30 am in Udaipur - woohoo!  I can't wait to see my friends!