McLeodganj October 27, 2011

McLeodganj

As I sit in my bed typing, I watch the sun rise over the mountains for the last time...my last time as I am leaving on the 7:45 pm overnight bus to New Delhi.  It's cold in my room this morning as winter edges its way into this small Tibetan village.  Of course, it's not really a Tibetan village, but appears so with all the traditional clothing worn here by the Tibetan population.  They are actually the richest community in exile in the world, mainly due to the popularity of H.H. the Dalai Lama and celebrities like Richard Gere who raise money for this group of refugees.

Yesterday was Diwali, somewhat like the Indian equivalent of Christmas, and the fireworks were non-stop and very loud last night.  I stood on my balcony and watched as they lit up the valley and mountainside.  The Hindu temple below me has been cleaned, painted, and decorated with lights for the occasion.  Now the morning is once again peaceful as the eagle hawks soar above the valley, at times coming very close to my windows and revealing their emormous size.
I have a long list to complete today; make a few purchases, pay the people who didn't have change and said, "pay me later", have my package for home packed and mailed, etc.  I bought a dozen Pashmina scarves to sell that are stunning - as you turn them over the color changes - and so very soft, unlike what you get in the states labeled "Pashmina" that are actually synthetic.  The goats in the Himalaya gave up their belly fur for these scarves!

Although the Taj Mahal was calling my name, and I will go there later, I have decided to go to the Pushkar Camel Fair in Rajasthan.  Every year around 200,000 people converge there (the population is only about 15,000),  bringing with them some 50,000 camels, horses and cattle.  It's bizarre as musicians, snake charmers, children balancing on poles, etc. jostle into life. Even the tourist board's cultural program is bizarre: turban tying and mustache contests, or seeing how many people can balance on a camel.  It's a grand epic, and not to be missed if you are anywhere within camel-spitting distance.  I think it will be a nice change from peaceful McLeodganj.

I bought a new book yesterday, The White Tiger by Aravind Adiga, which has been recommended by several people.  It is set in India and should make a good read for this part of my trip.  Well, I just ran a bucket of hot water as I don't trust it to last through a shower (I got covered with soap and it quit on me yesterday), so I guess I better get my day started.  I want to get this blog posted before I leave today; one more task for my list!

Main Temple, McLeodganj October 24, 2011



Room with a View!



The mountains above the tree line are turning white as the snow deepens on the slopes...so beautiful to see out my windows as I arise each morning.  It snowed in the high mountains again yesterday as it poured down rain below. 

The wind blew rain onto our backs and the temperature dropped as thousands sat for the teachings of H.H. the Dalai Lama.  Not wanting to miss a word, my friend and I sat, freezing, until the noon break when I was able to get back to the hotel for my down jacket.  H.H. really has a way of making the text so clear, it is easy for me to understand and strengthen my practice.  The teachings are regarding the path to enlightenment through meditation.  After the second day, I feel I have a much better understanding of the stages of meditation and the steps needed to reach them.  He is giving the lay vows tomorrow in which I will participate.  Imagine, taking your vows from His Holiness the Dalai Lama himself!

As the afternoon session ended, His Holiness descended the stairs with Richard Gere behind him.  We always make our way to the edge of the stairs to get a glimpse of him as he makes his way to the car.  Yesterday, quite by accident, we were positioned at his car as he came to get in.  He looked me straight in the eyes and nodded...I cried.  He has such a powerful presence to be such an unassuming man.  He describes himself as "just a simple monk."  I am always so very impressed.

I walked the circumambulation on the trail that circles the mountain below the compound of His Holiness, with his residence perched high on top.  It is a paved path with two series of prayer wheels, a temple, a senior citizen home for Tibetans, and an artist carving Tibetan script in stone.  The path is lined on the sides in stones with prayers carved and painted and many prayer flags flying above.  In the early morning you can see many Tibetans taking the path, men and women alike, some in good shape and many walking with canes...so devoted to their faith.

I love the Tibetan food; not too spicy, but delicious!  They didn't have change this morning at the Peace Cafe, so they told me to pay them later.  I will probably eat dinner there and pay for both meals at once.  Did I mention my dinner costs $1.15? I love this town! There are a few more places to hike and things I want to see before I leave, so I will probably stay the rest of the week.  With all these mountains, my legs are hard as a rock.

The night bus leaves McLeodganj each evening at 6 pm and arrives in New Delhi the next morning.  I can get my hands done with henna again, spend the night there, and take the morning train to Agra - the Taj Mahal beckons!

McLeodganj, October 19, 2011

View from My Balcony

The wispy clouds turned pink as the sun rose behind the surrounding mountains.  A large bird flew in circles over the valley as a monkey climbed the tree beside my balcony.  The children lay out mats ofr breakfast in the schoolyard below and the chanting would soon start at the temple in His Holiness the Dalai Lama's compound.  Another day begins in McLeodganj.

Tibetans

Yesterday was a special day.  As I made my way to the temple for my morning circumnabulations and prayers, I noticed a crowd was on their way down the hill with me.  As I arrived at the compound, there was special security screening in place.  Upon inquiry, I found out that His Holiness was leading paryers this morning from the main temple...what a treat!  Excited, I made my way through the crowd and seated myself behind the many monks who were already chanting to the sound of the Dalai Lama's voice.  He was seated in the temple chanting for the next hour as we joined in the repititions.  When he rose to leave, I rushed to the side as he emerged from the door and walked past me to the gate of his residence below, bowing and greeting all.  He has such a presence that it is felt when he passes.

Bhagsu Falls

The afternoon brought a hike with my new friend, William from L.A., to Bhagsu Falls, approximately 2 km straight up the mountain.  The hike was a bit arduous, but rewarding.  As we walked the stone paved path up, young girls sold henna tattoos put on with a wooden stamp, men with families played ancient instruments for money from tourists, and monkeys played in the adjoining forest.  The falls soon came into view at the center of the gorge.  William told me about the small cafe situated beside the clear pool of water at the base of the falls and I looked forward to a hot cup of chai.  We climbed across rocks and soon settled onto a wooden bench for tea and walnut bread I bought at the German bakery before leaving.  Never hike without food...that's my policy and it served me well!  

Beggars on Path to Falls

As we passed through the small community of Bhagsu on the return walk (much easier downhill) we spotted an Ayurvedic doctor's office.  Since William had a sore throat for the last 6 weeks, I suggested he see the attending doctor.  After a consultation and exam, she gave him some pills to take and told him to make a boiled herbal concoction with which to gargle 3x daily.  We have high hopes it will work as the antibiotics the doctor in Delhi gave him have yet to do anything.


Today I have to solve my computer problem - I picked up spyware at one of the WiFi cafes and cannot go to a site other than the one it puts on my screen - no Yahoo, no Facebook, no gmail, no blog.  Right now it's time for my morning cup of green tea I have in my room before the town awakens, as the sun rises.

Night Bus to Dharamsala/McLeod Ganj October 14-15, 2011

The night bus from Rishikesh left at 4 pm for the 14-16 hour trip, the time is not fixed, to McLeodganj on the western side of India, not far from the Pakistan border. I slipped into a seat that was so close to the one in front of me that my knees touched it.  As it made its way north, the monkeys from the thick forest on either side lined the road like beggars beside temple grounds.  The road wound its way up the mountain and as we approached Dehradun, monkeys gave way to vendors selling plastic blow-up toys and vegetables.  We picked up the last load of passengers there and started across the northern mountains toward our destination.  After making a stop for dinner at a roadside cafe, the lights dimmed and I attempted to sleep as the night air chilled and the now unecessary air conditioning was cut off.  I  will only say that it was a restless night without much sleep.

View from HH the Dalai Lama's Compound

The home of H.H. the Dalai Lama, lies on top of the mountain just north of Dharamsala in McLeodganj, the adjoining town.  For all intents and purposes, this is a Tibetan community.  There are approximately 7,000 of them in residence here, many of whom migrated from Tibet.  I saw on Tibet TV this morning that 2 monks 17 & 19 yrs. old had immolated in Tibet in an effort to bring to the attention of the world the conditions under which they live in Tibet - now a nun has done the same!  I will register tomorrow for the Dalai Lama's teachings that will take place next week.  I am so looking forward to it.




My $11. Room @ Hotel Mount View

 I now sit in a restaurant overlooking the main chowk (square) watching the many tourists from all corners of the world - young & old couples, backpackers, Indians, Chinese, Asians, Europeans and more.  There are a lot of people in town, locals and tourists alike.  It's cold when the sun goes down and in the upper 60's during the day, but I packed for the weather.  Did I mention there are no heaters in the hotel rooms?  You just have to take a hot shower mid-afternoon while it is warm enough!

October 8-14, 2011 Phool Chatti Ashram, Rishikesh

Central Area

I arrived at the ashram a bit after noon to find a lovely, natural environment surrounded by a forest with its resident monkeys.  Phool Chatti Ashram is 120 years old.  The resident ashram director, Swami Dev Swaroop Nanda Ji, is an Ayurvedic Doctor & Vedic Astrologer.  The Program Director, Sadhvi Lalita Nand Ji, has been living there for over 20 years.  She is a young woman of about 35-40 yrs. and says of her stay, "I never said "I think I will spend my life here", but tomorrow came and I stayed, then another tomorrow, and another tommorrow and here I am more than 20 years later".  Lalita Ji launched the Yoga & Meditation Program in the late 1990's.  When she first came, there was no road, only a foot path that connected pilgrims to the holy places in the north.  The ashrams along the path were resting places for the pilgrims to get some food and sleep. 


The schedule kept us busy from the wake-up gong at 5:30 am through the evening meditation ending at 9 pm.  We had 2 hours of free time after lunch, which was a good time to get laundry done, read, or go down by the Ganges River right outside the gate of our grounds.  The ashram is situated next to a series of rapids that could be heard all day and gave a peaceful sound for sleeping.

Rooftop Dining Area 

The meals were all vegetarian and tasty, but I must admit, I got tired of the same taste (spices) all the time.  My favorite meal of the day was breakfast, which consisted of tropical fruit, oatmeal, bread, and chai with honey...yum!  All the meals were all you could eat and with the walks and 3 hours of yoga a day, I was ravenous and took several portions.


I had a private room with a bath that I shared with 3 other women...hard to get shower time.  The bath did offer hot water, but only to take a "bucket bath".  It was heaven after the long days of sweaty, walks, yoga, and the heat in general. The nights were refreshingly cool and you were glad to go to bed at 9 pm, tired, but feeling good. 

Fire Ceremony

On the final day we had a fire ceremony, which was a perfect end to the week.  It was carried out in a small, open room with arched windows overlooking the crystal clear Ganges.  People from Israel, Germany, Brazil, Russia, France, Sweden and the U.S. formed the group of 24 participants all chanting an ancient chant 108 times and tossing a special wood into the fire.

Bonfire Night!

The last night we had a large bonfire on the beach - our going away party!


I feel stronger, more flexible, with much more knowledge of both yoga and meditation.  I was also able to attain the breakthrough I was looking for in my meditation.  The program was well rounded and interesting.  We had people from all over the world - Germany, Russia, Brazil, Columbia, Sweden, and more!

The Group

Now for that 14 hour overnight bus ride to Dharamsala!

Rishikesh, October 5, 2011

Footbridge across the Ganges

 In the early morning hours I see women in saris, men in shorts, and little naked children bathing at the ghats (stairs under bridge) opposite my hotel.  So I walked down to the Ganges to get my feet in the water.  Since the source of the river is high up in the Himalaya, the water is icy cold!  Humans can get used to anything.  That which does not kill us, makes us stronger!

I walked to my favorite breakfast place that sits on the cliff at entrance to the bridge, to have a pastry from their German bakery.  It's a fabulous place with the morning breeze blowing in,and a great view, not to mention the food, which is the best I have found here.

The backpackers trudge along, some carrying 2 packs, looking for a suitable hotel on the other side.  And of course, the monkeys are a constant source of entertainment; the mothers nursing their babies, young ones scamper along the cables, and the large male (right), posturing, asserting his dominance.

Sri Trayanbakshwar Temple

The rafts drift past, headed for white water rapids.  This has become a go-to spot for rafting as well as the hikes in the surrounding mountains.  There are waterfalls, lucious vegetation and wildlife to see.  With the sun topping the mountain at 8:30 am comes the heat, which is not bad today after the night's rain.

Street Vendor

 Durga Puja rocks on with a large prasad (serving of food to the people) at lunch time.  While in a shop earlier a lady came by with a tray of smaller portions and I sampled one.  It was some kind of small bean, spicy, with something about the consistancy of mashed potatoes, but a bit sweet, to mash into the beans to pick them up.  Of course, you eat it with your hands.  I was glad mine were clean at the time.

I belong to a travel forum at couchsurfing.com and will meet with Amit, whom I met on the Rishikesh forum, at 5:30 pm.  He works at a large non-profit here in town and should provide interesting conversation.  I like to get to know the locals.  I am also trying top connect with a mother & daughter who live here, but have been unsuccessful so far.

I bought a new book by J. Krishnamurti (1895-1986) yesterday to mentally prepare myself for the ashram.  I have 2 of his books at home and really enjoy his wisdom.  He is anti-religion and dogma, rather proporting self-discovery as the way to the truth. I quote: "Spiritual leadership is contrary to spirituality. A man who is enlightened, clear, does not need a leader, but he who is confused demands a leader, and so creates him out of his own confusion."  An interesting viewpoint at the very least, but really strikes a note in me.

On a lighter note, I am still trying to figure out how to cut cross-country to Dharamsala.  I may have to bus north to a larger town, Dehradun, to catch the tourist bus.  It leaves in the evening to arrive at 6 o'clock in the morning.  Hopefully I will get a little sleep in transit.

Rishikesh, October 4, 2011

October 4, 2011

I love the mornings here as they are cool, there's a breeze and it is so quiet.  Usually the music is playing, but I think someone is sleeping in today.  It's 6 am and the monkeys are up early with me.  I see babies this morning clinging to their mothers.

There's very little traffic on the bridge; some pilgrims and a scooter, a string of donkeys slowly walk to the other side with their burden, and an old holy man with his 2 dogs and walking staff.  A pundit blows a shell horn, bells chime, and the chanting begins.

7am - Within the last hour, the monkey have all woken up. I see five mothers with babies clinging to them, various adults, and the large alpha male now making their way to wherever they find food.  One came up behind me here on my balcony and was walking into my room.  I shooed it and it came right back at me.  They can be quite aggressive.  I gave it some nuts and it sat down to eat them as I closed my door.  The lady upstairs came down to get a pole to encourage them to leave her space.  She said she was walking across the bridge with a bag of fruit yesterday and they took it from her!

The small swifts are numerous with a sprinkling of crows and pigeons.  I have seen what looks like an eagle - very large and solid black.  Other than the birds and the monkeys, I haven't seen any other wildlife.

There's someone sleeping on the roof below me on a blanket with one covering him, head and all.  The monkeys ignore him.  The sun has not topped the high surrounding mountains yet and I hope the wind and clouds will remain with us through out the day.  When it is still, the moist heat is stifling.  I took a room with only a fan to prepare myself for the ashram, which I know will not be air conditioned.

The young man, Irish, just stopped in with a morning greeting.  He serves in the dining room and we have long discussions on philosophy.  He's such a sweet, respectful boy, upbeat and just happy in general.

Yesterday I walked the 2 km south to Swarg Ashram, a spiritual community made up of temples, ashrams, a crowded bazaar, sadhus, and the bathing ghats.  As I came around the corner of the main temple, there were 20-30 beggars situated along the outer wall on their mats, begging bowl in hand.  Palm readers and astrologers line the benches.  Stands are set up to sell prayer beads and snacks to the pilgrims.

My birthday passed with little notice.  That's good as I don't need to get any older!  I heard from my new friend in Dharamsala and she is reserving me a room with bath and balcony there for my arrival on the 15th.  It's cooler higher up in the mountains and they are still getting some rain in the afternoon; the tail end of the monsoons.

October 3rd, Rishikesh

October 3, 2011

It is hard to believe I have been in India for less than a week; it all feels so familiar.  The heat and humidity are about the same as Florida, except in Florida I stay in the air conditioning.  The heat during the day wipes me out, but the cool breezes of the night and early morning are devine!

It is 6 am and I am sitting on my balcony sipping tea, listening to the music from the temples across the river, and watching the monkeys scamper across the rooftops.  The singing reminds me of traditional Chinese opera in their high falcetto  tones; something I think would take much time to master.

I have seen only two cats since I have been here, but plenty of dogs roam the streets.  They don't eat cats, so where are they?  Strange....  There are certainly plenty of monkeys. A female grooms her mate at the yoga hall across from me as a small crow caws from the rooftop.

I am doing laundry daily and need to buy more clothes.  Oh boy, shopping!  After all, it is my birthday!

I am looking forward to the ashram on Saturday - silence, meditation, yoga and no electronics.

Durga Puja, Rishikesh

October 2, 2011

Durga Puja, the 6 day Hindu celebration in honor of Goddess Durga, is a major event here, drawing hundreds of pilgrims into the small town.  Ladies in their finest saris, many of them silk, are stunning in a variety of colors.  Vendors line the streets selling jewelry, pieces of sandalwood, deities, vegetables and prepared food.

The footbridge crossing the Ganges carries a steady stream of pilgrims and tourists across to the dozens of shrines on the other side.  Bells ring, ceremonial fires are lit, and music is played loudly as swamis lead the pilgrims in prayer. There is much chanting in which I participate. 

The center of town is now host to a large stage with statues of Mother Durga, Ganesh, and other deities.  The tent covering is decorated with crystal chandeliers and the incense smoke fills the air as men, women, and children line up for blessings from the priests.  Prasad of pieces of apples, bananas and cucumbers are passed out by the platter full.  Sadhus (holy men) with hair piled high on their head, barefoot, are draped in white cotton.  Cows wander through and are touched for good karma.  A row of donkeys loaded with goods make their way through the street and down the hill unnoticed.

It is an auspicious occasion indeed!

Oct 1 Rishikesh

After a fitful sleep, I wondered what possessed me to eat those sweets before climbing into bed.  It seems sugar and sleep don't mix well.  Four thirty came early, but I needed to finish packing before I made my way to the train station.  Showered and packed, I checked out of the hotel and pulled my suitcase through Main Bazaar before the sun struggled from the horizon to heat the already humid city of New Delhi.  Dogs harrassed each other around the food vendor's cart as old men swept the night's garbage from the street with hand made brooms.


The train station was busy for 6:00am, but I found Platform 16, car C2, boarded, and located my seat.  I settled in as the train pulled away from the station. The outskirts of Delhi slid past my window as we picked up speed.  On the side of the tracks, women in bright colored saris squatted next to huge piles of cow dung, scooped it into a mold, and made 6" patties to be dried in the sun.  They would be sold at the market and used as fodder for fires where dinners were prepared. 


Fields of sugar cane stood beside acres of rice paddies as men in traditional kurtas worked the crop.  Women with their saris pulled up and tied to avoid the water, tended rice.  Colorful birds flitted in and out of the pink blooms of lantana that grew beside the tracks as the Shatabadi Express wound its way toward the mountains.  I dozed between cups of tea and breakfast.  We pulled into the Rishikesh station 4 1/2 hours later.  A shared motor-rickshaw ride to upper Rishikesh and I was settling into my room at the Hotel Ishan.



Footbridge at Laksman Jhula

 Now the sun sets over the cloud enshrouded mountains surrounding Rishikesh as the pundits chant, a fire burns, and the River Ganga flows rapidly past.  Monkeys nurse their young sitting on the foot bridge as the pilgrims make their way from the Swarg Niwas and Shri Trayanbakshwar temples on the other side of the river, back to their hotels.  I sit on my balcony writing and enjoying the breeze as the temperature drops to a pleasant level for the evening.