Nov. 18, 2011 Jaipur - The Wedding

The Bride!

I went to the old city today to meet with Rama, my new "friend" who is trying to sell me jewelry.  He took me on the back of his bike to the optometrist to get my new glasses and waited to help me pick out the frames.  They will be ready on the 23rd and at 1/2 of the U.S. cost.

Rama also found me a computer repair place and I dropped it off on the way to Vandu's house.  He will call me Monday with the prognosis.  I got to the house, and no one was there!  How was I to get into this sari?  Oh well, the driver will try to find the venue, the Shreeji Palace, and I will take it from there.

I arrived at the wedding after about an hour of the driver being lost and immediately looked for someone to help me with the sari.  I found a young girl who spoke English and she said her mother could help me; her mother only spoke Hindi.  After much ado, I was in the sari and looking quite spiffy!  I bought it in Delhi and it is made out of Kashmiri silk in teal blue and gold.

The party was a bit slow, as there was more photo-taking than anything.  It actually went on for many hours as the bride and groom sat on the main stage in what could only be called thrones.  Everyone and their mama (including me) had their photo taken with the couple.  The surrounding tables were packed with food, cooks, and chai and everyone enjoyed good food and conversation.  As it turns out, the auspicious time for the actual ceremony, 7 turns around a fire as the priest chants, would not take place until 2 am, way past my bedtime.  Rama was at the airport dropping off a client and offered to come pick me up and take me to my hotel, so I left about 10:30 pm.  It was a bit anti-climactic as the best party was yesterday.

Nov. 17, 2011 Jaipur - The Wedding

Vandu, husband & baby

I arrived at Vandu's (the sister-in-law of the groom) home way out by the airport at 1 pm to prep for the wedding of her brother-in-law. I met Vandu on a traveler's website called Couchsurfing.com. She invited anyone who was in the area to come to the wedding, and so far, 18 CSers have shown up. They are all staying in the basement of her unfinished house - bare concrete, dust & noise - on mats on the floor, with the exception of one bed. The 2 girls who arrived first occupy the bed. I am glad I got a hotel rather than just show up here. Vandu asks me, "aren't you staying here with us?" I don't know what to say.... And the bride and groom are moving into the house after the wedding!

It's mayhem and disorganization - no one can find their things, and food is being served in a bucket (veggie meatballs of some kind in curry sauce) with flatbread. None of us know where the venue is located, what time the party starts, or in fact, anything about the wedding that is to to take place over the next 2 days. The girls have bought sari's with no petticoat or top; I am not sure how they will wear them without the pieces to tuck the sari into or pin it up.

Vandu is a bit harried, but manages to look stunning in a 12,000 rupee, sequin decorated sari and loads of gold jewelry. Her husband wears a long white and silver jacket with Neru collar and large silver lame' pants. I help the groom with his cuff links as he pulls on the jacket to his rather dashing sharkskin suit with fitted pants. He looks great!

We pile into a jeep and are off the the Shreeji Palace where a large stage with professional lighting & DJ is set up and a smaller one with 2 thrones for the bride & groom. There are tables of food and approximately 10-13 cooks preparing fresh dishes. The women are decked out in their finest saris loaded with sequins, pearls, and rhinestones. They wear elaborate "gold" jewelry; necklaces, rings and bangles stacked half-way up their arms, and look brilliant!

After eating a little of everything, the ceremony started. The priest chanted and performed a ceremony with the groom, then the bride arrives - hands and arms covered a an elaborate henna design, a stunning sari, jewelry covering her ears, arms, neck and chest and looking so very beautiful. She looked demure and submissive with her head bowed and downcast eyes. It is an arranged marriage and the bride and groom hardly know each other.

Groom

 

Another the ceremony takes place, many gifts are bestowed and the dance performances begin; one after another for about 2 hours. There is a couple, brother and sister, who are the best performers having had many years to practice. Friends and family went onstage, waved money above the heads of the performers, then deposited the money on a plate at the side of the stage. Everyone got onstage to dance to dance at the end, disco style. All in all, a fun night!

The trip back to the hotel was a bit scary as I was not so sure about the rickshaw driver, the streets were dark, and with the construction for the new metro, was at best, bone jarring as I bounced at least 2-3 inches off the seat at times. I think I will get the number for the regular taxi and pay a bit more for comfort and safety tomorrow!

Nov. 14, 2011 Udauipur

It was 8:45 am when I climbed on the back of a motorcycle along with Nicola, my friend from England, and the driver wisked us away through the countryside to the Animal Aid facility on the outskirts of town. 

The Animal Aid hospital was started by a couple from the UK to help with the local street dogs and other discarded animals that are no longer able to produce an income for their owners.  There are seperate areas for dogs with mange, paralyzed dogs, recent amputees, puppies, and the severly injured. Other areas house cattle, burros, pigs, 2 turtles who have cracked shells and are unable to live in the wild, and even a large monkey that was abused by its owners and now has no nose and is blind.  It was the first time I have ever seen large animals (cows, burros) with amputated limbs rather than being put down.

The day started with a service for a recently deceased dog.  People talked about the dog's rescue from the streets after being hit by a car, his recovery and life at the center, and his 3 years of life there.  I spent the rest of my day assisting the vet's assistant with his daily rounds, petting paralyzed dogs, and walking puppies.

I ate a supposedly "safe" salad today and picked up a bug, so I am off to the pharmacy for meds and electrolyte packets.  Hope I feel better tomorrow as I am booked on the night train to Jaipur, a nine hour trip, for the wedding there.

Nov 6, 2011 Udaipur

Maria from Spain and I decided to take the boat tour of Lake Pichola today from the City Palace.  It circles the Lake Palace Hotel made famous by the film, Octopussy, and docks on Jagmandir Island, which hosts its own hotel and spa.  Built in 1620, and flanked by a row of stone elephants, it has a fabulous view of the city and its golden palace.

 After lunch we went to the ghats.  Groups of women in saris performed pujas as the men bathed in the lake and young boys dove from the walls above.  I felt like I had strolled into someone's home; the rituals and baths were too personal to linger in the area and we quickly exited.

Nov. 1, 2011 Udaipur, Rajasthan, India

Standing on my balcony, I watch as the bright green conures leave their perch in the tree and are making green streaks across the sky.  Several chipmonks / squirrels scavenge the rooftop across from me as pidgeons flex their irridescent purple and green necks balancing on the wires below.  It's early and time for baths and laundry at Ganguar Ghat on the other side of the lake.  I can hear the slapping of boards against concrete and stone as the dirt is literally knocked from the fabric.  The city looks so serene at this time of the morning.

City Palace

I went to see the City Palace and got lost on the way back for over an hour...I am exhausted!  The City Palace is huge and dominates the skyline from the east side of Lake Pichola.  I can't even imagine living in a place that large...the children must have had a blast running the halls and courtyards.  What a great place for hide & seek!  The main part of the palace hosts a museum, with lavish mosaics of peacocks, many glass and mirror works and ornamental tiles.  There is also a pleasant central garden in which to relax after winding through the many narrow passageways.  The rest of the palace fronts the lake and has been partly converted into two luxury hotels.  The grandiose Durbar Hall was added in 1909 and is one of India's most impressive.  It holds hundreds of people and can be hired for special occasions.

Oct. 31, 2011 New Delhi to Udaipur, Rajasthan, India

Spent the day trying to solve my computer problem - I lost the cord! Although I had no success getting another, the guys in the shop invited me to eat lunch with them. So, here we stood at the counter with everyone's food tins spread out and dipped flat bread into the various containers of dal (lentils), spicy potatoes, paleek paneer (spinach sauce with cheese, rice, and more. Delicious!

Dropped by the internet shop to check my email and found out they are requiring a copy of your passport and a photo of you to use the internet! It seems someone used Facebook to provoke violence in the country and they are keeping a close check on whomever logs in.

It's time for the night train and I arrived at the Nizamuddin station in plenty of time. You have to pick your way through crowds of people, not only standing, but some looked like they were camping in the station and on the platforms. A small child squatted on the edge of the platform to poop on the tracks below as her mother went to fill her bottle of water from the tap. The group next to me were having a picnic of sorts and we all waited for the Mewar Express to Rajasthan. I booked a 2nd class AC, which is a sleeper bunk with 4 people per compartment; not to be confused with the Sleeper class which is 6 people per compartment with no AC and open windows. It was rather nice with clean sheets, pillows, and a blanket. I shared the compartment with 3 other tourists; one from England, one from New Zealand, and the other two from Spain. It was a peaceful 12 hour journey and I slept!

McLeodganj October 27, 2011

McLeodganj

As I sit in my bed typing, I watch the sun rise over the mountains for the last time...my last time as I am leaving on the 7:45 pm overnight bus to New Delhi.  It's cold in my room this morning as winter edges its way into this small Tibetan village.  Of course, it's not really a Tibetan village, but appears so with all the traditional clothing worn here by the Tibetan population.  They are actually the richest community in exile in the world, mainly due to the popularity of H.H. the Dalai Lama and celebrities like Richard Gere who raise money for this group of refugees.

Yesterday was Diwali, somewhat like the Indian equivalent of Christmas, and the fireworks were non-stop and very loud last night.  I stood on my balcony and watched as they lit up the valley and mountainside.  The Hindu temple below me has been cleaned, painted, and decorated with lights for the occasion.  Now the morning is once again peaceful as the eagle hawks soar above the valley, at times coming very close to my windows and revealing their emormous size.
I have a long list to complete today; make a few purchases, pay the people who didn't have change and said, "pay me later", have my package for home packed and mailed, etc.  I bought a dozen Pashmina scarves to sell that are stunning - as you turn them over the color changes - and so very soft, unlike what you get in the states labeled "Pashmina" that are actually synthetic.  The goats in the Himalaya gave up their belly fur for these scarves!

Although the Taj Mahal was calling my name, and I will go there later, I have decided to go to the Pushkar Camel Fair in Rajasthan.  Every year around 200,000 people converge there (the population is only about 15,000),  bringing with them some 50,000 camels, horses and cattle.  It's bizarre as musicians, snake charmers, children balancing on poles, etc. jostle into life. Even the tourist board's cultural program is bizarre: turban tying and mustache contests, or seeing how many people can balance on a camel.  It's a grand epic, and not to be missed if you are anywhere within camel-spitting distance.  I think it will be a nice change from peaceful McLeodganj.

I bought a new book yesterday, The White Tiger by Aravind Adiga, which has been recommended by several people.  It is set in India and should make a good read for this part of my trip.  Well, I just ran a bucket of hot water as I don't trust it to last through a shower (I got covered with soap and it quit on me yesterday), so I guess I better get my day started.  I want to get this blog posted before I leave today; one more task for my list!

Main Temple, McLeodganj October 24, 2011



Room with a View!



The mountains above the tree line are turning white as the snow deepens on the slopes...so beautiful to see out my windows as I arise each morning.  It snowed in the high mountains again yesterday as it poured down rain below. 

The wind blew rain onto our backs and the temperature dropped as thousands sat for the teachings of H.H. the Dalai Lama.  Not wanting to miss a word, my friend and I sat, freezing, until the noon break when I was able to get back to the hotel for my down jacket.  H.H. really has a way of making the text so clear, it is easy for me to understand and strengthen my practice.  The teachings are regarding the path to enlightenment through meditation.  After the second day, I feel I have a much better understanding of the stages of meditation and the steps needed to reach them.  He is giving the lay vows tomorrow in which I will participate.  Imagine, taking your vows from His Holiness the Dalai Lama himself!

As the afternoon session ended, His Holiness descended the stairs with Richard Gere behind him.  We always make our way to the edge of the stairs to get a glimpse of him as he makes his way to the car.  Yesterday, quite by accident, we were positioned at his car as he came to get in.  He looked me straight in the eyes and nodded...I cried.  He has such a powerful presence to be such an unassuming man.  He describes himself as "just a simple monk."  I am always so very impressed.

I walked the circumambulation on the trail that circles the mountain below the compound of His Holiness, with his residence perched high on top.  It is a paved path with two series of prayer wheels, a temple, a senior citizen home for Tibetans, and an artist carving Tibetan script in stone.  The path is lined on the sides in stones with prayers carved and painted and many prayer flags flying above.  In the early morning you can see many Tibetans taking the path, men and women alike, some in good shape and many walking with canes...so devoted to their faith.

I love the Tibetan food; not too spicy, but delicious!  They didn't have change this morning at the Peace Cafe, so they told me to pay them later.  I will probably eat dinner there and pay for both meals at once.  Did I mention my dinner costs $1.15? I love this town! There are a few more places to hike and things I want to see before I leave, so I will probably stay the rest of the week.  With all these mountains, my legs are hard as a rock.

The night bus leaves McLeodganj each evening at 6 pm and arrives in New Delhi the next morning.  I can get my hands done with henna again, spend the night there, and take the morning train to Agra - the Taj Mahal beckons!

McLeodganj, October 19, 2011

View from My Balcony

The wispy clouds turned pink as the sun rose behind the surrounding mountains.  A large bird flew in circles over the valley as a monkey climbed the tree beside my balcony.  The children lay out mats ofr breakfast in the schoolyard below and the chanting would soon start at the temple in His Holiness the Dalai Lama's compound.  Another day begins in McLeodganj.

Tibetans

Yesterday was a special day.  As I made my way to the temple for my morning circumnabulations and prayers, I noticed a crowd was on their way down the hill with me.  As I arrived at the compound, there was special security screening in place.  Upon inquiry, I found out that His Holiness was leading paryers this morning from the main temple...what a treat!  Excited, I made my way through the crowd and seated myself behind the many monks who were already chanting to the sound of the Dalai Lama's voice.  He was seated in the temple chanting for the next hour as we joined in the repititions.  When he rose to leave, I rushed to the side as he emerged from the door and walked past me to the gate of his residence below, bowing and greeting all.  He has such a presence that it is felt when he passes.

Bhagsu Falls

The afternoon brought a hike with my new friend, William from L.A., to Bhagsu Falls, approximately 2 km straight up the mountain.  The hike was a bit arduous, but rewarding.  As we walked the stone paved path up, young girls sold henna tattoos put on with a wooden stamp, men with families played ancient instruments for money from tourists, and monkeys played in the adjoining forest.  The falls soon came into view at the center of the gorge.  William told me about the small cafe situated beside the clear pool of water at the base of the falls and I looked forward to a hot cup of chai.  We climbed across rocks and soon settled onto a wooden bench for tea and walnut bread I bought at the German bakery before leaving.  Never hike without food...that's my policy and it served me well!  

Beggars on Path to Falls

As we passed through the small community of Bhagsu on the return walk (much easier downhill) we spotted an Ayurvedic doctor's office.  Since William had a sore throat for the last 6 weeks, I suggested he see the attending doctor.  After a consultation and exam, she gave him some pills to take and told him to make a boiled herbal concoction with which to gargle 3x daily.  We have high hopes it will work as the antibiotics the doctor in Delhi gave him have yet to do anything.


Today I have to solve my computer problem - I picked up spyware at one of the WiFi cafes and cannot go to a site other than the one it puts on my screen - no Yahoo, no Facebook, no gmail, no blog.  Right now it's time for my morning cup of green tea I have in my room before the town awakens, as the sun rises.

Night Bus to Dharamsala/McLeod Ganj October 14-15, 2011

The night bus from Rishikesh left at 4 pm for the 14-16 hour trip, the time is not fixed, to McLeodganj on the western side of India, not far from the Pakistan border. I slipped into a seat that was so close to the one in front of me that my knees touched it.  As it made its way north, the monkeys from the thick forest on either side lined the road like beggars beside temple grounds.  The road wound its way up the mountain and as we approached Dehradun, monkeys gave way to vendors selling plastic blow-up toys and vegetables.  We picked up the last load of passengers there and started across the northern mountains toward our destination.  After making a stop for dinner at a roadside cafe, the lights dimmed and I attempted to sleep as the night air chilled and the now unecessary air conditioning was cut off.  I  will only say that it was a restless night without much sleep.

View from HH the Dalai Lama's Compound

The home of H.H. the Dalai Lama, lies on top of the mountain just north of Dharamsala in McLeodganj, the adjoining town.  For all intents and purposes, this is a Tibetan community.  There are approximately 7,000 of them in residence here, many of whom migrated from Tibet.  I saw on Tibet TV this morning that 2 monks 17 & 19 yrs. old had immolated in Tibet in an effort to bring to the attention of the world the conditions under which they live in Tibet - now a nun has done the same!  I will register tomorrow for the Dalai Lama's teachings that will take place next week.  I am so looking forward to it.




My $11. Room @ Hotel Mount View

 I now sit in a restaurant overlooking the main chowk (square) watching the many tourists from all corners of the world - young & old couples, backpackers, Indians, Chinese, Asians, Europeans and more.  There are a lot of people in town, locals and tourists alike.  It's cold when the sun goes down and in the upper 60's during the day, but I packed for the weather.  Did I mention there are no heaters in the hotel rooms?  You just have to take a hot shower mid-afternoon while it is warm enough!